What I Love About Vintage Sailor Pants

4.30.2018

Sailor pants have been a classic style for both men and women since the early 20th Century. I wanted to walk through some of the key features of 1940's sailor pants that have made them so popular throughout the years, and show how these details influenced my Persephone pattern, a modern well-fitting adaptation of this minimal style.




The Persephone pants pattern is inspired by original US issue Navy sailor pants from the 1940's. In those days, the pants were made without a side seam, but in later years, you will notice that the side seam reappeared (I'm not sure whether the change was stylistic or utilitarian). I thought it would be helpful to compare the Persephone pants to an original pair from the 1940's and outline the key features that have made them great to wear, and show how they are now an accessible style for women who love to make their own clothes.

  • HIGH WAIST: Both the original sailor pants and the Persephone pants have a true high waist. Our waistlines have changed a lot over the years and most people wear their pants much lower, closer to their hips. But this is not the true waistline. I love a super high waist, and drafted my pattern to hit at the true waistline.
  • FITTED BACK: Many times, you'll see pictures of sailors wearing their dress whites with a more baggy fit in the rear. Even on modern women's wide-leg pants, the back can be problematic. I spent a lot of time perfecting the Persephone pants so they have a more flattering, feminine fit, and look great both from back and front.
  • NO SIDE SEAM: Original 1940's sailor pants did not have side seams, and I also wanted this minimal look for the Persephone pants. It took many pattern drafts before I came up with the exact fit I wanted. I love a straight side leg, which I believe aids in giving a super flattering fit through the hips and waist. 
  • SPACIOUS POCKETS: Original sailor pants had pockets that were shorter and more rectangular. When I drafted the first few pairs, I didn't think a whole lot about the pockets, except that I wanted the opening big enough to fit my hand. After wearing some of the first drafts, I noticed I put my iPhone in my pocket a lot. I don't know about you, but when I have mindless tasks to do throughout the day I like to listen to audiobooks and podcasts. So when I made the final draft, I made sure the pocket is able to fit my massive smartphone (e.g., iPhone 6+). 
  • BUTTON FLY: Both the original sailor pants and the Persephone have a button fly. I personally love a good button fly and I'm always looking for ways to construct a garment which uses buttons over zippers (anyone else hate zippers?)! Button flies can be tricky to sew, but my pattern provides a clear and straightforward approach which will make you pleasantly surprised at how easy and fast it is to put together.
  • WIDE RANGE OF SIZES: Sailor pants can look great on all sizes, and I wanted my pattern to support this. The Persephone pants come in a wide array of sizes, from 0-20. Since the pattern was released, most sewers have found that my sizing guide works perfectly for them, but several have had to perform small adjustments to make these pants fit their bodies. I can provide advice on how to do this.*
  • SHORTS: I decided to include a shorts version in my pattern because I wanted it to be versatile for all seasons. Making a good pair of shorts can be more difficult than just the "cut-off" version of your favorite pants, so my pattern simplifies the process. I'm always looking for the perfect high waist shorts that aren't too short short (they are always too short!), but also not too long! I think the 4" inseam on the Persephone shorts is the perfect length, but of course they can easily be lengthened or shortened as desired.
  • 100% HANDMADE: Everything available in my shop is designed and constructed entirely by me. The feeling of having made the pants you're wearing is wonderfully empowering, and I want you to be able to experience that as well. Not only do you get to pick the color and fabric yourself, you can make any alterations to the pattern if necessary, so that they fit your own unique body! It's a great feeling wearing a pair of pants that fit you like a glove. 
I'm really proud of the Persephone pants pattern. It has been in the works for about 2 years, and I hope you will enjoy it as much as I have enjoyed creating, wearing, and fine-tuning it.


Thank you to Morissa from bottleofbread for the use of her great images showing the original 1940's sailor pants


* One of the more common questions I get is how you would fit these pants with a much smaller waist to hip ratio. For this, you can cut the size that best fits your hips and then bring in an inch or two at the back darts and cut the smaller waistband to fit. Most people have had success with this method and haven't needed to add a side dart. If you have a fuller stomach, you can let out the front by re-drawing the opening so it is straighter and tapers less towards the waist.

Inspiration for the Persephone Sailor Pants + Shorts

3.27.2018

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Today I wanted to talk a little bit about my new sewing pattern, the Persephone Pants + Shorts. I have been working on these pants for what feels like an eternity! In reality, it's been almost two years since I began drafting the original pattern. That pattern has gone through so many alterations since I first drafted it! I have learned so much about pants in the last year. I finally got the fit I was looking for and with the encouragement of several people, I decided to release my pattern into the world! I have been dreaming of a high waisted wide leg sailor pants pattern for years. I love the silhouette of the high waisted wide leg trousers from the 1930's and '40s. I wanted to create a modern interpretation of these pants, that were less baggy and much more fitted throughout the waist and hips. I think they can be so flattering on many different body types. I also personally love non-stretch pants and jeans and I haven't found a lot of home sewing patterns that were drafted specifically for non-stretch fabrics. Although this pattern was originally intended for non-stretch fabrics only, several of my wonderful pattern testers decided to use 3-5% stretch and they turned out absolutely fabulous! So really, it's up to you to decide what kind of fabric you want to use. I've been enjoying these pants made in a 10oz cotton canvas. I feel like it's heavy enough to hold everything in place, but it still has some movement and it's not quite as constricting as a 12oz or 15oz weight fabric. It's fun to experiment. I know I am looking forward to sewing some shorts and pants in a heavy linen this summer. But I am also thinking about making a pair of denim pants, maybe with a cut-off frayed hem. I love sewing because it gives me the power to make whatever I envision. The possibilities are limitless! 


The Persephone Pants + Shorts are available as a sewing pattern for home sewers or if you don't sew, they are also available for purchase in my shop. If you want to share your Persephone pants or shorts on social media, feel free to use the hashtag #persephonepants 






Book Review: The Better Homes & Gardens Diet Book 1955

5.06.2016

I recently acquired a vintage book about dieting and I was skeptical about it at first, thinking it may be totally outdated but I was pleasantly surprised to find it was really full of some wonderful advice! In fact, it's probably one of the most delightful dieting books I've ever read! But then I'm always drawn to fun vintage things like this, so perhaps it's not everyone's cup of tea. For me, though, it was a delightful read. It's called "Better Homes and Gardens Diet Book" printed in 1955. I got mine from Amazon, but you may be able to find it at a used bookstore or a thrift store. It was pretty inexpensive and after seeing pictures of some of the illustrations, I really wanted to read it!
I don't talk about diets or dieting very often on here, but believe me I've been through my fair share (although perhaps not as many as some)! These days it seems most popular to be gluten free (been there, done that, not for me) or grain free, eating "clean," etc. But I think what most of these diets fail to point out is that although it's good to eat healthily, you still can put on weight if you are eating more than your body needs.
I think many times we wonder why the scale continues to creep upwards when we eat healthy and keep an active lifestyle. I know for me, it was eye opening when I started tracking my food. I'm not overweight by today's standards, but pounds were starting to add on one by one. I keep an active lifestyle these days, rock climbing three times a week, and sometimes hiking on the weekends. But my weight hasn't been affected much at all by this extra activity. I think it's easy to think if you exercise then you can be lazy about how much you eat. Unfortunately it doesn't work quite like that! Here's a good explanation about why exercise should be secondary to diet.
The Better Homes and Garden Diet Book actually covers more than just dieting and how to lose weight. Here are a few of the chapters in the book: "For safe and sure reducing," "Why proteins are important," "Better Homes & Gardens meal plans" (I think this one is the most dated), "When you're away from home plate," "Dieting family style," "What minerals do for you," "Don't overlook calories in alcohol," "All about vitamins" (I always find this topic interesting), "Cut calories, but enjoy variety" and more! The delightful illustrations scattered throughout the book I found particularly amusing!
I really think calorie counting is underrated these days. I know it's kind of "old fashioned" and some people can take it too the extreme. But for many, it works really well. It's basically just like keeping track of your finances. You won't have to guess about how much you need to eat and how to lose a few extra pounds (or a lot of pounds) if you closely track your calorie "income." 
Some of the meal plans in the Better Homes and Garden Diet Book are definitely dated. Some of them aren't too bad, though, to be honest! They have three meal plans from 1,000 calories, 1,250 calories and 1,500 calories. They also divide the plans by season. It was stated in the book that these plans were put together to reflect a normal diet for most people, but of course times have changed and we don't eat quite this way anymore. So if you are planning to put together a meal plan for yourself, it's probably best to not stray too far from your usual diet, making sure you are keeping within your calorie limits of course. However, you may find you can eat more (within your calorie "budget") and are satisfied for longer if you add more vegetables and whole grains into your diet, if you aren't already eating them.


The book also discusses how many calories you need to eat and how many you would need to cut in order to "reduce." They suggest you start by tracking all the food you eat for a day to get an idea of how much you are eating and mark everything in their handy "Daily diet-diary." They also talk about how to diet while eating with others who aren't dieting. They touch on teenagers and safe ways of losing excess weight and when it might not be a good idea to lose weight. They also talk about how to go about gaining for people under weight.

The thing I love about this book is that they advocate a lifestyle change. Not just a short term diet and then right back to how you were eating before. It's about small changes that make up the big picture. If you torture yourself by reducing your calories so low, you may not stick to your plan and just give up. Here's an excerpt from the book that I liked:

How long can you stay on a diet?

You may notice that the Better Homes & Gardens reducing diets are not billed as a Five Day, or Ten Day, or Fourteen Day diets. The reason is that you can, and should stay on them as long as excess fat is present. Not a day longer! When you have attained normal weight, you no longer have any useless surplus fat to make up for calories that reducing diets are deliberately designed not to provide....Another reason why no specific time limit is placed on the diets is that reducers who slim down on short-term diets are prone to feel that the battle of overweight is won, once and for all. It never is, or hardly ever. Fat will come right back again if eating is unrestrained and daily meals pile up a calorie surplus. Permanent weight control depends upon re-educating one's appetite and eating habits. Foods provided in the Better Homes & Gardens meal plans are those common to average American diets. That way the transition to higher calorie diets, after weight is reduced, will be easy and natural. Diets containing exotic "health foods" or strange and unusual things to eat are all too likely to make the reducer feel that there is some wonderful short-term magic in them. There is no such magic, and the road to lifetime weight control lies in intelligent eating of wide variety of common and delicious foods of the familiar kinds provided by the following meals. Incidentally, when you're eating the foods in these meal plans, enjoy every morsel of them. Don't believe for a minute that you ought to feel guilty because you aren't suffering, or because your taste buds are telling you, "This is delicious!" 


The book includes a list in the back with all of the food calories, but these days it's easy to track your calorie intake with phone apps like Lose It! (my fave) or My Fitness Pal. And there are lots of support groups for those who need some inspiration. I talk about this subject of dieting a lot with my mom because it's something she has struggled with most of her adult life. It's one way we bond, because we both love talking about it and I think it's good to have someone to talk to when you are struggling with your weight. Not everyone wants to hear about your eating habits! Excess weight can be a real struggle for many people and for some reason I find health and diet really interesting. I have a few pounds to lose at the moment, not a lot, but a little bit and I prefer counting calories. Although it takes a bit of effort at first (maybe because I make most of the food I eat and recipes never show calories!), but it has gotten so much easier. I like it because I don't have to guess anymore about whether or not I'm eating too much of something. If you are counting everything and you know how much food you need to eat, if you stick with it for long enough, eventually you will see weight come off. For those of us who only have a few pounds to lose, it can take a bit longer to see it come off. But it's about making healthy changes for the long haul! I've been counting calories for about three weeks now and while I haven't seen any drastic changes on the scale, I have definitely been more aware of what kinds of foods I am putting in my mouth. I still have something sweet every day (I have a massive sweet tooth!), but now I also eat LOADS of vegetables. I never used to eat this many! I am also finding new ways to make recipes so they are healthier. I have two great muffin recipes that I'm planning to share on the blog soon. Maybe I'm just getting used to eating better, but I kind of amazed myself that they actually taste rather nice, even after making them lower in calories. They are also much more satisfying. Those recipes are coming soon! I also want to share some other meal recipes people were asking about. Stay tuned if you are interested!

If you are trying to lose weight, the biggest thing that will make the most difference is doing something you can stick with for the long run. There's no use getting a gym membership only to discover you never actually use it. Make a change you know you can stick to, even just a little change like dedicating two nights a week for a walk around your neighborhood. If you aren't interested in counting calories, cutting portions by a little or just being more mindful of what you are eating can help.

Well, it's Friday and it's such a gorgeous day! I'm going to spend the rest of my day sewing up a dress inspired by The Moon Spinners (sewing pictures coming soon) and then maybe a bit of time outdoors while it still smells of apple blossoms! I hope you all have a lovely weekend! xx


better homes & garden sewing book

10.24.2011

better homes & garden sewing book
better homes & garden sewing book
better homes & garden sewing book
better homes & garden sewing book

I've been looking through my 1961 Better Homes & Garden Sewing Book a lot lately and finding some really fun illustrations throughout the book. Not to mention a lot of great sewing tips! I was lucky to find a copy at a thrift store for almost nothing. I like these old sewing manuals so much better than the modern ones. I find they have a lot more helpful, not to mention fun, descriptions in them. What are some of your favorite sewing manuals?

rag curls!

10.13.2011

rag curls
rag curls
rag curls
rag curls
{first two pictures before brushing/styling hair, last two pictures after styling and make-up. pardon the messy bedroom in the last picture!}

Last night I decided to attempt doing my hair up in rag curls. This is one method of curling I have not tried before. It turned out to be super easy and incredibly comfortable to sleep on. You kind of look ridiculous, but that is no big deal. I made myself look even more ridiculous by putting a hairnet on over the curls so they would stay in place better. Anyway, I didn't get a picture before taking the rags out, but you can see a great tutorial on how to do it over at Vixen Vintage. I did find, however, that 7" long rags work better for longer hair. The 5" length strips were almost too short. I think I used somewhere around 16 rags. Also, I have really thick hair, so I like to use a spray bottle filled with water to spritz my hair rather than dunking my head under water. :) Otherwise my hair will not dry in the morning and I hate it when that happens!

After I woke up, I left my hair in the rags a bit longer since I wanted to make absolutely sure the curls were totally dry before taking them out. You can always tie a pretty ribbon around your curls to keep them out of the way while you get breakfast! When styling my hair, I like to use just a tiny bit of argan oil rubbed between the palms of my hands. I first work it into the ends of my hair and then continue up to the top of my head, smoothing out any frizzies. It has worked really wonderfully ever since I discovered it last spring. Then I brush the curls out and away from my face, using my other hand to smooth out the hair while brushing. If you like, you can add a few bobby-pins to keep your hair out of the way.

I'm excited to see what my hair will look like tomorrow!

Note about my hairbrush: I use this brush by Sonia Kashuk and although I have never used the Mason Pearson brush before and can't say how good it is, Sonia's brush is amazing on my hair. Every now and then I will clean it by immersing it in a glass of warm water/baking soda solution and let it soak overnight. In the morning, just rinse it off with water and it's sparkly clean! I've had this brush for about two years now and can definitely recommend it!