tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-90737627420084076952024-03-12T01:20:45.516-06:00Anna Allen Clothing BlogAnna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.comBlogger584125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-76504330313490512742020-01-14T11:20:00.001-07:002020-01-14T13:49:24.360-07:00Pants Fitting: Grading between sizes (Persephone Pants)<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"> <span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">"What size do I pick if I have a larger waist size than hip size and can I grade between sizes?"</span></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">I often get asked this, and the simple answer is yes indeed you can! Even though the Persephone pants have no side seams, you can still grade between sizes. You will be grading at the front of the pants as well as the back of the pants, disregarding the side body area. I recommend sticking with one to two sizes apart. You can also let out the back darts for more room if needed. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre-wrap;">FULLER WAIST TO HIP GRADING</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Example: 14 waist/10 hips. Start at size 14 at the waist front/back and move down to size 10 at the end of the front crotch extension as well as the back notches. Continue down the leg for size 10, unless your thighs match size 14, in which case you would grade out, starting at the front and back crotch point and moving down the leg. Cut size 14 waistband and fly pattern pieces.</span><span id="docs-internal-guid-262a677a-7fff-7110-21df-e94dd005aba4"></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdP2naULVgkpErmwjLpvr57jthiFd348YNbgUDavOVRVziAISpEQ4oa1eZvXk7xls76B5w5g0bYqMVO8OKCb9Nhca-QJkVDsmFohb1Q5i6FvjkX5CRBoeZC9H3qMdJ5FXLyiH_TfxVXBWf/s1600/perspehone-gradingbetweensizes-largerwaisttohip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1008" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdP2naULVgkpErmwjLpvr57jthiFd348YNbgUDavOVRVziAISpEQ4oa1eZvXk7xls76B5w5g0bYqMVO8OKCb9Nhca-QJkVDsmFohb1Q5i6FvjkX5CRBoeZC9H3qMdJ5FXLyiH_TfxVXBWf/s1600/perspehone-gradingbetweensizes-largerwaisttohip.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-262a677a-7fff-7110-21df-e94dd005aba4"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">If you need to grade from a smaller waist to hip size, this essentially works the same (in reverse). The only difference is that you might consider adding side body darts in addition to grading between sizes, especially if you are more than one or two sizes apart. </span></span></span><br />
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-262a677a-7fff-7110-21df-e94dd005aba4"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">SMALLER WAIST TO HIP GRADING</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Example: 10 waist/14 hips. Start at size 10 at the waist front/back and move out to size 14 at the end of the front crotch extension as well as the back notches. Continue down the leg for size 14, unless your thighs match size 10, in which case you would grade in, starting at the front and back crotch point and moving down the leg. Cut size 10 waistband and fly pattern pieces. </span></div>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-262a677a-7fff-7110-21df-e94dd005aba4"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7uVQQLgInYIHsa-9VoXWarNbyzrSMjJnROCv102bESqvnem6GcCGYiRYo0Y9vSzOO3lmeIs-UMjVZ4y2kCJLP-WYnMjiegYmIkUjDkqi-N_ROAluxvPMd2iEj0M91WBuUByvj1fcapLSv/s1600/perspehone-gradingbetweensizes-smallerwaisttohip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1008" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7uVQQLgInYIHsa-9VoXWarNbyzrSMjJnROCv102bESqvnem6GcCGYiRYo0Y9vSzOO3lmeIs-UMjVZ4y2kCJLP-WYnMjiegYmIkUjDkqi-N_ROAluxvPMd2iEj0M91WBuUByvj1fcapLSv/s1600/perspehone-gradingbetweensizes-smallerwaisttohip.jpg" /></a></span></div>
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For the waistband and fly pattern pieces, choose the size based on your waist size.<br />
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Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-7819295773853540872019-08-09T13:11:00.001-06:002020-01-14T11:25:55.545-07:00Demeter Dress Hack: Back Ties<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">For this hack you will need the Demeter Dress + Top sewing pattern, available in the <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/727692927/demeter-dress-top-pdf-sewing-pattern" target="_blank"><b>shop</b></a>.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpPnx-7KVPwyscFVGa7m3YnUt4RBEK3Rw8Iro3dzl2RL_-ieaUfiScMvNBfqozpyl7I25KXNDMMmR2OLC623Srwp_O1eUM4pLZh8TaSnQjlWBSC3Ptf5T3kt9i_KcVexGFLWY_Wo2a4hkE/s1600/Demeter_TieHack_photographic_5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpPnx-7KVPwyscFVGa7m3YnUt4RBEK3Rw8Iro3dzl2RL_-ieaUfiScMvNBfqozpyl7I25KXNDMMmR2OLC623Srwp_O1eUM4pLZh8TaSnQjlWBSC3Ptf5T3kt9i_KcVexGFLWY_Wo2a4hkE/s1600/Demeter_TieHack_photographic_5.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">It’s super easy to add ties to the Demeter Dress to give it a more defined waistline. Follow these instructions after completing step 19 (View A) or step 11 (View B).</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Cut the back carrier loops and long tie lengthwise from your fabric. </span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">BACK CARRIER LOOPS (cut 2): 1” X 2”</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">TIE (cut 1): 1 ¼” X 56”</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcnIJCEU9875vFWE4M29ur8Rnp2ol6qKADa9RmtCnhWP5KQ4RYZQATne881pjdNWVwqZ7X-cd_sj4GxQ_8o2EjCIffOvPv7SHQzkCrLDz61sVpASXRY1I6fXZjutHAmwyA0baVyLKwnP9W/s1600/Demeter_TieHack_graphic_1ties.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="961" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcnIJCEU9875vFWE4M29ur8Rnp2ol6qKADa9RmtCnhWP5KQ4RYZQATne881pjdNWVwqZ7X-cd_sj4GxQ_8o2EjCIffOvPv7SHQzkCrLDz61sVpASXRY1I6fXZjutHAmwyA0baVyLKwnP9W/s1600/Demeter_TieHack_graphic_1ties.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMcxUJViVRihP4fSGyB4tqiv1nwW3gQ0M-Ect1Ua5XRBAE8gXfTdsPQxgJEEs1YD3u1rBEXbJqtJk058U7kLOT1IZJHdqfzXKKUmg5lvNxNLD6dpCNQ2YwKj6CAXg1XrD9jImV2_TKdlFB/s1600/Demeter_TieHack_photographic_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1202" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMcxUJViVRihP4fSGyB4tqiv1nwW3gQ0M-Ect1Ua5XRBAE8gXfTdsPQxgJEEs1YD3u1rBEXbJqtJk058U7kLOT1IZJHdqfzXKKUmg5lvNxNLD6dpCNQ2YwKj6CAXg1XrD9jImV2_TKdlFB/s1600/Demeter_TieHack_photographic_1.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">On both ends of the tie, turn under ¼” and press. Fold the tie lengthwise (wrong sides together) and press. Then fold either side under so the raw edges are enclosed, and press. Edgestitch along the full length of the tie. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNbxsdxuo19FUtzO9ZORYigifNBzhssfPOlJsiugYDNNdeWNloCoFtlCrA_8qq2vnLSGilp09UTO4mMTh0uB-40HwknStnvNvhrSHhcdmBespL6EEifemnf5mUKU6QzaDPAXE7MzzTj9Gn/s1600/Demeter_TieHack_photographic_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNbxsdxuo19FUtzO9ZORYigifNBzhssfPOlJsiugYDNNdeWNloCoFtlCrA_8qq2vnLSGilp09UTO4mMTh0uB-40HwknStnvNvhrSHhcdmBespL6EEifemnf5mUKU6QzaDPAXE7MzzTj9Gn/s1600/Demeter_TieHack_photographic_2.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO_RglmJdDU8cH5LqaazF2LYdvcvsUIzaPeGboSYWwo9MG1HgzuG1V6iPQPp2vt14w9JUnRkDvoiTFztg4IX5bkhWlV2Xd121odwSHnl4IeTi1sWEYCl8g2EJ-OfREbpFLCRN7sm4SMURy/s1600/Demeter_TieHack_photographic_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO_RglmJdDU8cH5LqaazF2LYdvcvsUIzaPeGboSYWwo9MG1HgzuG1V6iPQPp2vt14w9JUnRkDvoiTFztg4IX5bkhWlV2Xd121odwSHnl4IeTi1sWEYCl8g2EJ-OfREbpFLCRN7sm4SMURy/s1600/Demeter_TieHack_photographic_3.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-5362e54f-7fff-434d-968f-13aa6eee0817"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">For the back loops, repeat the instructions as for the tie, except do not fold the ends under. Fold the carrier in half so it forms a loop. Repeat for the other loop. </span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidniJ6B27IT914J8z46oK_h_wypLi3bvcQM2b1NbW8frpNZYbAU-RNj8RHU-CydHbmdLcM9fsbOEg0-RIcSy8bktmAeHZ319R_frgg2stA3KePISyNrHtjmwMmfWi1xy7XGYJdve0P5PE1/s1600/Demeter_TieHack_graphic_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidniJ6B27IT914J8z46oK_h_wypLi3bvcQM2b1NbW8frpNZYbAU-RNj8RHU-CydHbmdLcM9fsbOEg0-RIcSy8bktmAeHZ319R_frgg2stA3KePISyNrHtjmwMmfWi1xy7XGYJdve0P5PE1/s1600/Demeter_TieHack_graphic_1.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">To find a position for the back loops, find the center back of the bodice, then find the center between the side seam and the center back and mark the position. Do this on both the left and right side of the back bodice and place your loops here. I’ve found this is the best position for the back loops. You could alternatively add the loops at the side seams or a few inches to the back of the side seams. Stitch the loops in place a few times ⅜” away from bottom edge of bodice.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtbsfMJWMmhU_vtrAQng0I0ubFtQ7vSuYZD8kIXzhXtbAnB2lCddbIKspTee-EW35S_n2JgTdGSPBSI-aRAKA6dQkvjL7Y8JGK_J_yOk_6leDUEFh8K0bOc5nserEZfwck8d8TP1xlKFa/s1600/Demeter_TieHack_photographic_4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtbsfMJWMmhU_vtrAQng0I0ubFtQ7vSuYZD8kIXzhXtbAnB2lCddbIKspTee-EW35S_n2JgTdGSPBSI-aRAKA6dQkvjL7Y8JGK_J_yOk_6leDUEFh8K0bOc5nserEZfwck8d8TP1xlKFa/s1600/Demeter_TieHack_photographic_4.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Continue with instructions for attaching the skirt. Thread tie through back loops and cinch waist in as much as you like. Enjoy!</span></span></div>
Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-34125779610245118952019-08-09T13:11:00.000-06:002020-01-14T11:26:06.144-07:00A quick guide to bust adjustmentsMost people will find they won't fit a pattern right out of the package and may need at least a few tweaks to get a custom fit. This is a simple guide to show you how to do two of the more common bust alterations. Although this is not an in-depth guide to bust adjustments, I hope this will be helpful for anyone who may need some guidance when performing these alterations. If you have never done a FBA (full bust adjustment) and you don't know if you need one, I recommend checking out some of the more in-depth resources listed at the end of this article.<br />
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There are other alterations you may need to do that will not be covered here. A book on fitting garments is great to have on hand and will make your clothing look so much more professional and tailored. Although there are many great fitting books, I recommend checking out <a href="https://www.palmerpletsch.com/product/palmer-pletsch-complete-guide-fitting/" target="_blank">The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting</a>.<br />
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<i>Before you start these pattern alterations, place a piece of paper underneath your work so you can fill in the spaces after you have made the adjustments.</i><br />
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FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT<br />
There are different methods of knowing whether or not you need a FBA. Many people recommend choosing your size based on your high bust rather than your full bust measurement and then doing a full bust adjustment on the pattern. This is where I would recommend starting out, but if you have very broad shoulders, this may not be the best way to achieve a good fit. In either case, you will want to sew a test muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOalzBpVwN0cHifJmywjC0cZS4pbJXXDfRgxQqZpI4BHq9jvBjstzFzHNIzdYpSe8kQvaNLBuK1CzPisBiXRdyv5JozT7hwVuIqs7gbspXSeLTCG9DUCN7jJNP8ud-nDFzHXienYc5SzxA/s1600/Demeter_BUSTALTERATIONSgraphics_fba_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOalzBpVwN0cHifJmywjC0cZS4pbJXXDfRgxQqZpI4BHq9jvBjstzFzHNIzdYpSe8kQvaNLBuK1CzPisBiXRdyv5JozT7hwVuIqs7gbspXSeLTCG9DUCN7jJNP8ud-nDFzHXienYc5SzxA/s1600/Demeter_BUSTALTERATIONSgraphics_fba_1.jpg" /></a></div>
1. Draw a line from the bottom of the pattern to the<br />
bust apex and then to the armhole.<br />
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2. Draw a second line from the side seam, at the<br />
center of the bust dart, to the bust apex.<br />
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3. Draw a horizontal line from the center front to the<br />
first line.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVNxc6-RNntaoubFZ2opuXkQnvzMcRgtW9igorvuMiakIGnoS3FVYwTs_FMOJ2BVU_3kHq3sXrbOIyPdcGS1YSDIgye1mzesajIsSMrc9ZyPKAWajGWWTSaKyctEcE-DRNQR11Qv7TRK_U/s1600/Demeter_BUSTALTERATIONSgraphics_fba_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVNxc6-RNntaoubFZ2opuXkQnvzMcRgtW9igorvuMiakIGnoS3FVYwTs_FMOJ2BVU_3kHq3sXrbOIyPdcGS1YSDIgye1mzesajIsSMrc9ZyPKAWajGWWTSaKyctEcE-DRNQR11Qv7TRK_U/s1600/Demeter_BUSTALTERATIONSgraphics_fba_2.jpg" /></a></div>
4. Cut through the first line until you reach the armhole,<br />
leaving a hinge. Spread the pattern as much as you<br />
need to add.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwzc8kq9yvJXU_YfW_j0dWXns5dmXbM7OQ-nO2bm9-T2dEMeOaP8sCuYIrS7cpHjYfjUlLDGh3HeADoMqYbcRv7yw4yeDsTQT9i5Z3bTEmmlrbKe1Cfzyd0pmiuV6GKT-k0Jkku5sfapS9/s1600/Demeter_BUSTALTERATIONSgraphics_fba_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwzc8kq9yvJXU_YfW_j0dWXns5dmXbM7OQ-nO2bm9-T2dEMeOaP8sCuYIrS7cpHjYfjUlLDGh3HeADoMqYbcRv7yw4yeDsTQT9i5Z3bTEmmlrbKe1Cfzyd0pmiuV6GKT-k0Jkku5sfapS9/s1600/Demeter_BUSTALTERATIONSgraphics_fba_3.jpg" /></a></div>
5. Cut the second line through the dart until you reach<br />
the bust apex, leaving a hinge. Open the dart, swinging<br />
the side seam back down so that it is parallel with the<br />
first line that you cut.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGe9fSTdz5dbxbwiTPZfNkJVoiYHRG2nzTK5Wh4jNHUvr8J1Yw-i54zNPp7GOjzXzBvh5KAbE7VtT3aUYRYIXuhkIGBbyHE1kdOUsJIKvT7WcK2CjHCuMUjKiwuJPCcY33u2es5fkyUtbm/s1600/Demeter_BUSTALTERATIONSgraphics_fba_4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGe9fSTdz5dbxbwiTPZfNkJVoiYHRG2nzTK5Wh4jNHUvr8J1Yw-i54zNPp7GOjzXzBvh5KAbE7VtT3aUYRYIXuhkIGBbyHE1kdOUsJIKvT7WcK2CjHCuMUjKiwuJPCcY33u2es5fkyUtbm/s1600/Demeter_BUSTALTERATIONSgraphics_fba_4.jpg" /></a></div>
6 . Cut the horizontal line all the way through and shift<br />
this section down so that it is level with the edge of the<br />
bodice.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghN_A4roZ9_0WpmTfkdghkaaElqopzwl06SH1JLai5llH_4_H3Er3v7ssSvkUsHnj16LcHgA21Le34tpixwC2ErgcCmVxEzPjgX7RyRfI9z1-43qI9HOY9LwTB6Vz7zs1WbNZvLnVj7u_q/s1600/Demeter_BUSTALTERATIONSgraphics_fba_5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghN_A4roZ9_0WpmTfkdghkaaElqopzwl06SH1JLai5llH_4_H3Er3v7ssSvkUsHnj16LcHgA21Le34tpixwC2ErgcCmVxEzPjgX7RyRfI9z1-43qI9HOY9LwTB6Vz7zs1WbNZvLnVj7u_q/s1600/Demeter_BUSTALTERATIONSgraphics_fba_5.jpg" /></a></div>
7. Redraw the bust dart, hemline and center front.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
LOWERING THE DART<br />
Many people find they need to lower the dart on a pattern. It's a simple alteration and makes quite a difference on the finished garment. To find out if you will need to lower the dart, measure from your shoulder to your bust apex and then match this measurement to the pattern. If the dart point on the pattern is higher than your bust apex, lower the dart.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSH5v0AMFIibt7bcMN43OYJlUxSsT6NUaJ54Jx6C9Zl8BbTOCdg_Xefp45HN5Yf_B7UbWfTuBEFbtegkpXRRsbDBR7VRXsF5BpJ_lmMYamY8N1i4t7mZzT40oXc2CVUImH_mCeiHrwGAj9/s1600/Demeter_BUSTALTERATIONSgraphics_lowerdart_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSH5v0AMFIibt7bcMN43OYJlUxSsT6NUaJ54Jx6C9Zl8BbTOCdg_Xefp45HN5Yf_B7UbWfTuBEFbtegkpXRRsbDBR7VRXsF5BpJ_lmMYamY8N1i4t7mZzT40oXc2CVUImH_mCeiHrwGAj9/s1600/Demeter_BUSTALTERATIONSgraphics_lowerdart_1.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-align: center;">1. Place a piece of paper underneath the dart of the front</span><br />
pattern piece. Draw a box around the dart and cut it<br />
out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNHWfe75xn7eFdjR4WsB78wChHTARqxPQhZbNA2wplKctHe-oPtIpHDyoC9Fw1zxzSvognN-ALcPsvjq-q0xfD3pvEH_IzKfxAFLtlOU3iNHX0zP4AULdLs9DlqXiaH2KRJhx9AHf_f94y/s1600/Demeter_BUSTALTERATIONSgraphics_lowerdart_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNHWfe75xn7eFdjR4WsB78wChHTARqxPQhZbNA2wplKctHe-oPtIpHDyoC9Fw1zxzSvognN-ALcPsvjq-q0xfD3pvEH_IzKfxAFLtlOU3iNHX0zP4AULdLs9DlqXiaH2KRJhx9AHf_f94y/s1600/Demeter_BUSTALTERATIONSgraphics_lowerdart_2.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
2. Shift the dart up or down so that the point of the<br />
dart is level with the most prominent point of your<br />
bust. Secure the dart to the paper underneath and re-<br />
draw the side seam.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
FURTHER READING<br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="https://workroomsocial.com/blog/how-to-choose-the-right-sewing-pattern-size/" target="_blank">How to Choose the Right Sewing Pattern Size by Workroom Social</a></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://shop.mybluprint.com/sewing/classes/easy-fitting-the-palmer-pletsch-way-shirts-tops/37105" target="_blank">Easy Fitting the Palmer/Pletsch Way: Shirts & Tops</a></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.palmerpletsch.com/product/palmer-pletsch-complete-guide-fitting/" target="_blank">The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting</a></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://curvysewingcollective.com/the-beginners-guide-full-bust-adjustment/" target="_blank">The Beginner's Guide: Full Bust Adjustments by Curvy Sewing Collective</a></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://curvysewingcollective.com/tutorial-a-full-bust-adjustment-on-a-one-dart-bodice/" target="_blank">Tutorial: A Full Bust Adjustment on a One-Dart Bodice by Curvy Sewing Collective</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-79907257319345303122019-04-10T09:10:00.001-06:002020-01-14T11:26:25.302-07:00Straight Leg Philippa Pants Tutorial (with free sailor jeans pockets pattern)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYIVOsBfk5bW-hdwwsZe-MGcTA0nv_Vd8EPnaPQUI_Faz5Jh9oFg7WVPMJjUm5nAMUQYY0d-reYt57nM7vPGkuWvZ8zC1YbvE9hTBjJK44gJYGYKhL5Lh2RKjOrnauwPToTrx3gn9MRPFh/s1600/philippa+sailor+jeans+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYIVOsBfk5bW-hdwwsZe-MGcTA0nv_Vd8EPnaPQUI_Faz5Jh9oFg7WVPMJjUm5nAMUQYY0d-reYt57nM7vPGkuWvZ8zC1YbvE9hTBjJK44gJYGYKhL5Lh2RKjOrnauwPToTrx3gn9MRPFh/s1600/philippa+sailor+jeans+4.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYI2_pkS3i_EQmRjpeEpdvbt55IGXp6FhiZ7Sg8MVDYNiUAM30roT43rqS7BsKBd5BPMuWMayQk9jqcuoucip5g0Emnu_2X3wJVUIyytVzoSYUwqfGOKc16yGsdP7QQFo928VTyJyhgrqd/s1600/philippa+sailor+jeans+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYI2_pkS3i_EQmRjpeEpdvbt55IGXp6FhiZ7Sg8MVDYNiUAM30roT43rqS7BsKBd5BPMuWMayQk9jqcuoucip5g0Emnu_2X3wJVUIyytVzoSYUwqfGOKc16yGsdP7QQFo928VTyJyhgrqd/s1600/philippa+sailor+jeans+8.jpg" /></a></div>
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<br />
I wanted a pair of straight leg Philippa pants for summertime, so I made a simple alteration to the Philippa pants pattern for a looser fitting leg. Keep reading to find out how you can alter these tapered pants to create a straighter leg.<br />
<br />
First determine how much wider you want your pants to be. I decided I wanted to add about 4” total on each leg, so I divided that number in half and added 2” to the inseam width at the hemline on both the front and back legs.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgolA6oLGN-9Nac7AXiMzAflZ6DJt5LxA2GgvO0ljCPr6CPxCcPc6Bi0roU5fz0VVHGW0EW7re3cCu9U2VkuB6CYk3EsBODfE9Rqrt4zsteTiE1X-7ebHovCqzcS2U9ENQWbND-OLHla7AH/s1600/straightleg-philippa-instructions-step1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgolA6oLGN-9Nac7AXiMzAflZ6DJt5LxA2GgvO0ljCPr6CPxCcPc6Bi0roU5fz0VVHGW0EW7re3cCu9U2VkuB6CYk3EsBODfE9Rqrt4zsteTiE1X-7ebHovCqzcS2U9ENQWbND-OLHla7AH/s1600/straightleg-philippa-instructions-step1.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Measure 2" to the outside of the inseam hemline at both front and back pants and draw a line.</span></i></div>
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<br />
Next you need to draw a line starting from the 2" mark at the hem to the crotch. This isn't a straight line, but more of a curved line, tapered in at the crotch. To achieve this, you can pivot the pattern at the crotch point and swing the inseam out to match the hemline to the 2” mark. Trace the new inseam line. You may need to straighten the line up a bit more from knee to hem so it’s not as curved at the lower leg. But the pivot method helps give you just enough curve at the thigh without using a fancy ruler.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNWif4Ccqe-6OnD-R66PNU13ZoBMCrRy-Uu9isLYowldP3jkUNpOlV2OL-e7WvCa69ARKlcboYz5zpQtuh9yIwSg16oV74OqBbCQtT7_-wcBTK0hFHSbBsjJT6pMpo1HbON4GMWe2fu3X6/s1600/straightleg-philippa-instructions-step2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNWif4Ccqe-6OnD-R66PNU13ZoBMCrRy-Uu9isLYowldP3jkUNpOlV2OL-e7WvCa69ARKlcboYz5zpQtuh9yIwSg16oV74OqBbCQtT7_-wcBTK0hFHSbBsjJT6pMpo1HbON4GMWe2fu3X6/s1600/straightleg-philippa-instructions-step2.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Pivot the pattern at the crotch point and swing the inseam out to match the hemline to the 2” mark. </span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzBR7ihOTpraivYbgLiXUZVz9XQqMzf7yUCaMOYnZkZbEnEvRxoWN8C0Hu1ZMTeoMDe_rY_Wfp46FJYHbsLPNEVqGRq9y8x3DjNVlSLp_DCuc4ryPoyVEOzouf_FBbXS8bpylah6RhKNQg/s1600/straightleg-philippa-instructions-step3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzBR7ihOTpraivYbgLiXUZVz9XQqMzf7yUCaMOYnZkZbEnEvRxoWN8C0Hu1ZMTeoMDe_rY_Wfp46FJYHbsLPNEVqGRq9y8x3DjNVlSLp_DCuc4ryPoyVEOzouf_FBbXS8bpylah6RhKNQg/s1600/straightleg-philippa-instructions-step3.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Trace the new inseam line. </span></i></div>
<br />
I also sewed the buttonholes directly onto the front pants fly, eliminating the button placket entirely. Instead of adding the fusible interfacing on the fly facing, I added a slightly heavier weight interfacing right onto the underside of the fly front. (So when you are cutting out the fly interfacing, cut it with glue side up.) I also found I needed to trim the outside edge of the interfacing about ⅛” so it didn’t show under the fly facing. The facing makes this area extra strong so the fly doesn't ripple as much when you button it. The heavier interfacing also helps if you are using a lighter weight fabric. You could interface both the fly facing and directly on the underside of the pants fly, as I have just described if you are using a lighter weight fabric. I did not interface both pieces for my pair because I used a pretty stiff denim.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRIoyWLOHVfkS5swhfaLLhXVGGi7FQaRsZ9uNcLu15ddj_QGOTwGeSFYgLr8vDwG1s8uz_dnp_MepK_FpUgMA4H1uUQaPTo9DTeM4IspfZseBE-Lv1RWb3xt7wxUlpLEc24XD5uHufOGUW/s1600/flyfacing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRIoyWLOHVfkS5swhfaLLhXVGGi7FQaRsZ9uNcLu15ddj_QGOTwGeSFYgLr8vDwG1s8uz_dnp_MepK_FpUgMA4H1uUQaPTo9DTeM4IspfZseBE-Lv1RWb3xt7wxUlpLEc24XD5uHufOGUW/s1600/flyfacing.jpg" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Interfacing applied directly to the underside of the pants front.</span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg95nsMBNZBhE2ZC02k3QMF3Py-tjGMGj-XYENWmXc7cx7D-Y2MNREmLn27YSq0T8NyqbF3CDkmnhJIwOvxR99tqWuhzZ8MVYJ_9gY3N06I3LrFluMraW4v9p7uPRUq3DuIwguQLxwkmGO_/s1600/flyfacing2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg95nsMBNZBhE2ZC02k3QMF3Py-tjGMGj-XYENWmXc7cx7D-Y2MNREmLn27YSq0T8NyqbF3CDkmnhJIwOvxR99tqWuhzZ8MVYJ_9gY3N06I3LrFluMraW4v9p7uPRUq3DuIwguQLxwkmGO_/s1600/flyfacing2.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFw-NWf50CM7tU6iplnoqXvJ6NfBn5wk2KzpqteAhve3EnC1wM38f8HIV8gSvB6N6Qd0xmbcTRWKFqoJAmutF5cRLYi2nGiUxynO8rQICaNQJTpYtNunbs1iveim2bmzYvx4capY8nmVU/s1600/buttonplacket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFw-NWf50CM7tU6iplnoqXvJ6NfBn5wk2KzpqteAhve3EnC1wM38f8HIV8gSvB6N6Qd0xmbcTRWKFqoJAmutF5cRLYi2nGiUxynO8rQICaNQJTpYtNunbs1iveim2bmzYvx4capY8nmVU/s1600/buttonplacket.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Buttonholes sewn directly onto the left pants front after attaching the fly facing.</i></span></div>
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<br />
For fun I added front and back patch pockets for a <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/471428894/vintage-70s-cropped-navy-kick-flare-raw?show_sold_out_detail=1" target="_blank">vintage sailor jeans look</a>. I created a <b><a href="http://media.virbcdn.com/files/28/905df17646cce8b3-SailorJeansPockets_AddOn_ANNAALLEN.pdf" target="_blank">free pdf pattern for the patch pockets</a></b> if you would like to recreate this style (which you could also use for the Persephone pants).<br />
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<a href="http://media.virbcdn.com/files/28/905df17646cce8b3-SailorJeansPockets_AddOn_ANNAALLEN.pdf" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1130" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEw39NPuQG4BAzzgEDLTeV8TUVwub13XUVR2VClhITJU1aXS_eA5fcpcRoW4JLBDqAXqJ85kuzHqWdYHFS82bVGIwr9GKKxFT-oJ1rkXbxX3poxvbrJ0tOhwWvQW5pS_zF5Aj3qz2ABDqa/s1600/GRAPHICPhilippa_sailorjeanspockets_addon.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Click on the photo above to download the free Sailor Jeans Pocket PDF pattern.</i></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
The front and back pockets are parallel with each other (lining up at the top edge). On my size 4 pair, both front and back pockets are located approximately 3 1/4” down from the top edge. The front pockets are 2 1/4" from center front edge and the back pockets are about 1 1/2" from center back. Keep in mind the location of the pockets will vary from person to person. You can use the back pocket placement on the Philippa pants pattern to help you determine where the back pockets should go and then line up the front pockets with the back pockets so they are parallel with each other. I made my back pockets less angled and more straight by shifting the center back edge of the pocket placement up about ½”.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8l9igWw8MswXb7EQcl_EjfcKpOgnvDQsZSCWavheUlLJZyucZOz5rYw4S0QG74IOHSbPgqzjFs9U1z23XY7Wgn3U2JLAEZavUE0UOZmeUZj4_6bfvxSTRf0Ay3lShphmCnJ-HxjaFmAOQ/s1600/straightleg-philippa-instructions-stepLOWERPOCKET.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8l9igWw8MswXb7EQcl_EjfcKpOgnvDQsZSCWavheUlLJZyucZOz5rYw4S0QG74IOHSbPgqzjFs9U1z23XY7Wgn3U2JLAEZavUE0UOZmeUZj4_6bfvxSTRf0Ay3lShphmCnJ-HxjaFmAOQ/s1600/straightleg-philippa-instructions-stepLOWERPOCKET.jpg" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Pivot the inner (cb) pocket placement edge up approximately 1/2" to straighten the back pockets.</span></i></div>
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I recommend waiting to sew the pockets until the end, so you can try on your pants and figure out exactly where you want your pockets to go. I had to rip out the front pockets and re-sew them because they were way too far apart and looked all wrong! Learn from my mistakes!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRAJpey9ZdpZ50_RWMquPQzD3uJfJ7xoMS6vv_pLWLNnYAingvit6ZPaIjp-bcT4HV8HrCCPp_UG1kW3F3RJ2x6SYigLI4znWyefBTV9wNfx8VD4VJF1LJZUdZD0eh_YqdmKrgqh3IcYIO/s1600/philippa+sailor+jeans+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRAJpey9ZdpZ50_RWMquPQzD3uJfJ7xoMS6vv_pLWLNnYAingvit6ZPaIjp-bcT4HV8HrCCPp_UG1kW3F3RJ2x6SYigLI4znWyefBTV9wNfx8VD4VJF1LJZUdZD0eh_YqdmKrgqh3IcYIO/s1600/philippa+sailor+jeans+1.jpg" /></a></div>
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Belt carriers/loops: I sewed them slightly wider, about 1/8" wider and about 1/2" shorter (3" long). Instead of sewing the loops into the waistband seam, I folded the edges under and sewed them directly onto the pants with bar-tacks on the top and bottom. The three loops in the back are placed on the back darts and center back seam.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq3UbkE5FmUUP3Zwj8JSqqVX2O0va-KsaTjMmTN1PjmDb4r6bNygC5H0EKmlRBK02qAvNo9wYCVplRUXlpSXmMDXVw9pHk8r9spbqHnDcuhel2oSqN9JZ9MneI_fa6v-bA0bibQFpCdaLg/s1600/philippa+sailor+jeans+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq3UbkE5FmUUP3Zwj8JSqqVX2O0va-KsaTjMmTN1PjmDb4r6bNygC5H0EKmlRBK02qAvNo9wYCVplRUXlpSXmMDXVw9pHk8r9spbqHnDcuhel2oSqN9JZ9MneI_fa6v-bA0bibQFpCdaLg/s1600/philippa+sailor+jeans+2.jpg" /></a></div>
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The fabric I used is a <b><a href="https://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p247342_66604" target="_blank">13oz Japanese 100% cotton selvedge denim</a></b> I purchased last year at Fashion Fabrics Club. </div>
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The buttons are <b><a href="https://bennosbuttons.com/organic/Corozo-Buttons?product_id=5499" target="_blank">corozo buttons in the color navy</a></b> purchased from Benno's Buttons in sizes 13/16" for the large button and 5/8" for the fly buttons.</div>
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For this pair I decided not to use any fancy thread, but instead I just used matching navy thread and I really love this look! I'm still trying to figure out what to do with the hem. I cut the pants with a 1" hem, but originally I just wanted a raw frayed hem at cropped length. I can't decide if I should hem them or keep them raw! I think I'll wear them cuffed with the raw hem like this for a while longer before I decide. </div>
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I hope this little tutorial inspires you to create different variations of pants and jeans using a basic pattern. It's easy to change just a few little details for a fresh new look! If you make this variation to the Philippa pants, I would love to see them! For photos posted to social media, feel free to tag me @annaallenclothing and/or use these hashtags in your post: <b>#philippastraightleg</b> and <b>#philippapants</b><br />
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<br />Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-61612954778972695212019-03-30T08:00:00.000-06:002019-03-30T08:24:19.178-06:00Lotte Blouse Hack <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2PaYpF5QL4lkZecBm3OZhzwdz6DJ2MG1j6f64_qKeUov7xCmBYvbXzJrI7CnZWffpTMvQsivFXcXYh-iO6X37QSyKF6KFRSHjC9oy4BAHvSPTnXMjYd_gzbB9KQQj1hU7pDSgUgMaTtrB/s1600/Lotte+Blouse+Hack+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2PaYpF5QL4lkZecBm3OZhzwdz6DJ2MG1j6f64_qKeUov7xCmBYvbXzJrI7CnZWffpTMvQsivFXcXYh-iO6X37QSyKF6KFRSHjC9oy4BAHvSPTnXMjYd_gzbB9KQQj1hU7pDSgUgMaTtrB/s1600/Lotte+Blouse+Hack+3.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp8Cje_yoEZmlszh2k8tZ-4CtTG4uM2Wa5FdapmrVmn7UG6IHbVReP4CcArjpIZg0Ev4CSPiyngFljuLHQoC3vV7Yl0xnBWvliAbKVGe60_sBDx93-0OZ5E_z1pDgkXPsYcel4y3mPiV6w/s1600/Lotte+Blouse+Hack+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp8Cje_yoEZmlszh2k8tZ-4CtTG4uM2Wa5FdapmrVmn7UG6IHbVReP4CcArjpIZg0Ev4CSPiyngFljuLHQoC3vV7Yl0xnBWvliAbKVGe60_sBDx93-0OZ5E_z1pDgkXPsYcel4y3mPiV6w/s1600/Lotte+Blouse+Hack+1.jpg" /></a><br />
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<i>Spring is here and all I want to wear are pretty floral romantic blouses! I hacked the <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/454980094/lotte-blouse-off-the-shoulder-pdf-womens" target="_blank">Lotte Blouse</a></b> pattern, giving it fuller sleeves and body, adding length to the top edge so that it sits on top of the shoulders and I also shortened the sleeves. I sewed a narrow self-fabric tie for the neckline, mostly for decoration, but I think it adds a nice touch. Keep reading if you are interested in recreating this blouse!</i><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Materials:</span><br />
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<li><b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/454980094/lotte-blouse-off-the-shoulder-pdf-womens" target="_blank">Lotte Blouse PDF sewing pattern</a></b></li>
<li>About 2 1/2 yards of 45" wide fabric (I used Lecien cotton lawn <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/market/memoire_a_paris" target="_blank">"Memoire a Paris"</a></b> from a few years ago)</li>
<li>A few yards of cord or yarn to make the self fabric tie</li>
<li>Elastic, thread etc (as specified in the sewing instructions)</li>
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Cut out your size and alter the pattern as follows:<br />
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Add 3" to the top edge of all pattern pieces (front, back and sleeve)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgic7KFYv-mXfi_EihbJF4QE4w8brFCS1YDgj5cbvdQWcwLRFZYbzxor8A6oO03rNOid8GjdblR8wityGM3VZKKMeAMnMCYPc0-UGYif5OL7TPAo_WWDaieHwMCTY1x3PJ0hbGiEm7xdrZP/s1600/Lotte+Blouse+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgic7KFYv-mXfi_EihbJF4QE4w8brFCS1YDgj5cbvdQWcwLRFZYbzxor8A6oO03rNOid8GjdblR8wityGM3VZKKMeAMnMCYPc0-UGYif5OL7TPAo_WWDaieHwMCTY1x3PJ0hbGiEm7xdrZP/s1600/Lotte+Blouse+1.jpg" /></a></div>
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Extend the center back and center front 2".<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi-yDgBzyovPGRQJ8oxyD3TUvtyfIEacHZx2iHZJlgOiGW4HQ0EHex7sKQSf6QGsABxQ3DQI-F9QFGf3Y-phCInf-zb5kjcK0JEFRVgKdET5uzjf5K9SmHJqXvsFKn0fYHIpsSkT0AqrPy/s1600/Lotte+Blouse+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi-yDgBzyovPGRQJ8oxyD3TUvtyfIEacHZx2iHZJlgOiGW4HQ0EHex7sKQSf6QGsABxQ3DQI-F9QFGf3Y-phCInf-zb5kjcK0JEFRVgKdET5uzjf5K9SmHJqXvsFKn0fYHIpsSkT0AqrPy/s1600/Lotte+Blouse+2.jpg" /></a></div>
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Extend the sleeve width at the fold line by 4".<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvWAVFITSwlPzxcZhcdpIS9oudiThnqPV-3zzGCDEsqPw4Aur9mu3nDCWx6EDBkETBQeWTVjw18ntox7DDualGxG-88L-stw0YHB_zJ9ekn8i6h5cqd5fwahs7NC5Oi1Dldr3FgEai6Gwx/s1600/Lotte+Blouse+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvWAVFITSwlPzxcZhcdpIS9oudiThnqPV-3zzGCDEsqPw4Aur9mu3nDCWx6EDBkETBQeWTVjw18ntox7DDualGxG-88L-stw0YHB_zJ9ekn8i6h5cqd5fwahs7NC5Oi1Dldr3FgEai6Gwx/s1600/Lotte+Blouse+4.jpg" /></a></div>
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For short sleeves, as pictured here, shorten the bottom edge by 3 1/2".<br />
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Continue with the sewing instructions included with the pattern. When you have folded the top edge under, preparing it for the elastic casing, add a piece of fusible interfacing at center front. This is where you will sew a small buttonhole, about 3/8" long, for the self fabric tie to go through.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPAD_DHPV_04u1dj1gqlxIAPcODcMHeralc-aJ-hr_GyEE2IV07IyzpBw4L8g_sc7hvT4pVPl8MRFtTYfuaT6aS7hj73GPxylcT5VQs5EGneAvWusykxvxV6fDIye0sPt1KT8KnKaFHz36/s1600/Lotte+Blouse+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPAD_DHPV_04u1dj1gqlxIAPcODcMHeralc-aJ-hr_GyEE2IV07IyzpBw4L8g_sc7hvT4pVPl8MRFtTYfuaT6aS7hj73GPxylcT5VQs5EGneAvWusykxvxV6fDIye0sPt1KT8KnKaFHz36/s1600/Lotte+Blouse+7.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcDeWnvydM4XV4khyphenhyphen2GU_rMf5AaNRKoapKSkuO2LdiGhSGg-JYxk77e4SwwBHauUOjABV-zuh1Fvj7xRLkKZTUqy5hfE18cpILjEFbqUlPeiGxL2vYZeD-BOvb1LiaVCYwkUjM2yHUrcN6/s1600/Lotte+Blouse+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcDeWnvydM4XV4khyphenhyphen2GU_rMf5AaNRKoapKSkuO2LdiGhSGg-JYxk77e4SwwBHauUOjABV-zuh1Fvj7xRLkKZTUqy5hfE18cpILjEFbqUlPeiGxL2vYZeD-BOvb1LiaVCYwkUjM2yHUrcN6/s1600/Lotte+Blouse+8.jpg" /></a></div>
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Continue with the instructions, sewing the top edge casing, sleeve casing and hem. Thread the elastic through the neckline. Instead of letting the elastic fall off the shoulder, pull the elastic tighter so the blouse sits on top of your shoulders, or wherever feels most comfortable. Thread elastic through the sleeve cuffs, trying on to make sure the cuffs are loose enough around your arms.<br />
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Make a self fabric tie: Cut 1" wide bias strips of fabric and sew together so the final length measures approximately 60" long.<br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">Take a long piece of cord or yarn and knot the end. Wrap the bias strip right sides together, around the cord, keeping the knotted edge slightly above the bias tape and stitch along the top edge several times so the cord is secured to the bias tape. You do not want the cord to pull through the stitching when you go to turn it! </span></div>
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Using your zipper foot, stitch less than 1/4" away from edge, encasing the cord, and pulling the bias tape as you sew.<br />
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When you finish sewing the length of tape, trim the top corner and begin pulling the cord so as to turn the bias tape right side out. It may take a little time to get the top edge to turn, so you may need to use a sewing pin to help it along. Keep working at turning the tape, being gentle at any areas where there are seams.<br />
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Once you have completely turned the cord, cut off the end. Secure a small safety pin to one end of the fabric tie and thread through the buttonhole, continuing around the neckline and then out of the same buttonhole on the other side. Tie into a bow and trim edges. You may want to turn the edge of the self fabric tie to the inside and hand stitch closed, but I left mine raw. </div>
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That's it! Try the blouse on and re-position the neckline gathers to where it looks most flattering on you. I like the gathers primarily in the front and back, and less on the shoulders/sleeves. I personally find this style looks best tucked into high waisted pants, like the <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/603306981/persephone-pants-and-shorts-pdf-sewing" target="_blank"><b>Persephone pants/shorts</b></a> or <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/666510054/philippa-pants-pdf-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">Philippa pants</a></b>. If you make this blouse, feel free to tag photos on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/" target="_blank">Instagram</a> with <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/lotteblousehack/" target="_blank">#lotteblousehack</a> </span>so I can see yours!<br />
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<br />Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-33671913586911274922019-03-20T12:46:00.000-06:002019-03-20T13:19:12.164-06:00The Shop Company Professional Full Body Form Review<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I’m so excited about my new full body form! I have been thinking about getting a professional full body form for quite awhile now. Although I had one of those flimsy plastic adjustable forms for years, it completely broke down last year and I had to part ways with her. A few months ago I contacted<a href="https://theshopcompany.com/dress-forms/professionals.html" target="_blank"> The Shop Company</a> and asked about doing a collaboration and they kindly agreed to give me 50% off the price of the </span><a href="https://theshopcompany.com/professional-female-full-body-dressform-w-collapsible-shoulders-and-legs.html" style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">full body form</span></a><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. I was researching their forms and was planning to make the purchase myself either way, so I am pretty thrilled they agreed to work with me! The form is very well made and quite sturdy. I thought assembling the form would be difficult and take me hours, but it actually only took about 20 minutes. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">As for which size to order, I kept going back and forth on the size. I read everywhere to order the smaller size and then pad up. The thing is, the bottom portion of the form was way smaller on the size that fit my top portion best. And I really didn’t want to cover up the form with lots of padding if the one measurement that was too big for me was the bust. Since I will be using the form primarily for pattern making, I decided that it would be okay to order the larger form in the end. So I ordered the one that was closest to my measurements in the lower portion and close enough everywhere else, except for the bust. So far the slightly larger bust hasn’t really been an issue. If you plan to make a lot of tight fitting garments, you might want to be cautious and order down a size and pad it where you need it. I suspect most people will need to pad the bust and to do that you can easily put one of your bras on the form if necessary. The backside is a little less padded than me, but that can be remedied with a bit of quilt batting! </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">I am very happy with the quality of this full body form and it has already helped me so much with the patterns I am working on. It is reasonably priced, compared to other quality forms and it is quite sturdy, so I think it will last me a long time. I feel like I have an extra helper in the studio! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Shop Company has kindly agreed to give my readers a $15 discount on any</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://theshopcompany.com/dress-forms/professionals.html" target="_blank">Professional Dress Form</a></span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">! Just add the coupon code “anna_mcclurg” when ordering. You will also be offered a choice of a free gift </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">(either a </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://theshopcompany.com/professional-tailoring-shears-10-inch.html" target="_blank">10" Heavy Weight Shears</a></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://theshopcompany.com/professional-tailoring-shears-8-inch.html" target="_blank">8" Lightweight Shears</a></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">,<a href="https://theshopcompany.com/professional-thread-snipper.html" target="_blank"> </a></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://theshopcompany.com/professional-thread-snipper.html" target="_blank">4.5" Thread Snipper</a></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> or </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://theshopcompany.com/retractable-tape-measure-120-in-300-cm.html" target="_blank">120" Retractable Tape Measure</a></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) when you check out. </span><br />
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Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-72186248544650982522018-04-30T14:56:00.001-06:002018-05-01T09:26:04.065-06:00What I Love About Vintage Sailor Pants<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Sailor pants have been a classic style for both men and women since the early 20th Century. I wanted to walk through some of the key features of 1940's sailor pants that have made them so popular throughout the years, and show how these details influenced my Persephone pattern, a modern well-fitting adaptation of this minimal style.</div>
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/603306981/persephone-pants-and-shorts-pdf-sewing" target="_blank"><b>The Persephone pants pattern</b></a> is inspired by original US issue Navy sailor pants from the 1940's. In those days, the pants were made without a side seam, but in later years, you will notice that the side seam reappeared (I'm not sure whether the change was stylistic or utilitarian). I thought it would be helpful to compare the Persephone pants to an original pair from the 1940's and outline the key features that have made them great to wear, and show how they are now an accessible style for women who love to make their own clothes.<br />
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<li><b>HIGH WAIST</b>: Both the original sailor pants and the Persephone pants have a true high waist. Our waistlines have changed a lot over the years and most people wear their pants much lower, closer to their hips. But this is not the true waistline. I love a super high waist, and drafted my pattern to hit at the true waistline.</li>
<li><b>FITTED BACK</b>: Many times, you'll see pictures of sailors wearing their dress whites with a more baggy fit in the rear. Even on modern women's wide-leg pants, the back can be problematic. I spent a lot of time perfecting the Persephone pants so they have a more flattering, feminine fit, and look great both from back and front.</li>
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<li><b>NO SIDE SEAM</b>: Original 1940's sailor pants did not have side seams, and I also wanted this minimal look for the Persephone pants. It took many pattern drafts before I came up with the exact fit I wanted. I love a straight side leg, which I believe aids in giving a super flattering fit through the hips and waist. </li>
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<li><b>SPACIOUS POCKETS</b>: Original sailor pants had pockets that were shorter and more rectangular. When I drafted the first few pairs, I didn't think a whole lot about the pockets, except that I wanted the opening big enough to fit my hand. After wearing some of the first drafts, I noticed I put my iPhone in my pocket a lot. I don't know about you, but when I have mindless tasks to do throughout the day I like to listen to audiobooks and podcasts. So when I made the final draft, I made sure the pocket is able to fit my massive smartphone (e.g., iPhone 6+). </li>
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<li><b>BUTTON FLY</b>: Both the original sailor pants and the Persephone have a button fly. I personally love a good button fly and I'm always looking for ways to construct a garment which uses buttons over zippers (anyone else hate zippers?)! Button flies can be tricky to sew, but my pattern provides a clear and straightforward approach which will make you pleasantly surprised at how easy and fast it is to put together.</li>
<li><b>WIDE RANGE OF SIZES</b>: Sailor pants can look great on all sizes, and I wanted my pattern to support this. The Persephone pants come in a wide array of sizes, from 0-20. Since the pattern was released, most sewers have found that my sizing guide works perfectly for them, but several have had to perform small adjustments to make these pants fit their bodies. I can provide advice on how to do this.*</li>
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<li><b>SHORTS</b>: I decided to include a shorts version in my pattern because I wanted it to be versatile for all seasons. Making a good pair of shorts can be more difficult than just the "cut-off" version of your favorite pants, so my pattern simplifies the process. I'm always looking for the perfect high waist shorts that aren't too short short (they are always too short!), but also not too long! I think the 4" inseam on the Persephone shorts is the perfect length, but of course they can easily be lengthened or shortened as desired.</li>
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<li><b>100% HANDMADE</b>: Everything available in my shop is designed and constructed entirely by me. The feeling of having made the pants you're wearing is wonderfully empowering, and I want you to be able to experience that as well. Not only do you get to pick the color and fabric yourself, you can make any alterations to the pattern if necessary, so that they fit your own unique body! It's a great feeling wearing a pair of pants that fit you like a glove. </li>
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I'm really proud of the <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/603306981/persephone-pants-and-shorts-pdf-sewing" target="_blank"><b>Persephone pants pattern</b></a>. It has been in the works for <b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BLTt_NnhD80/?taken-by=annaallenclothing" target="_blank">about</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BLTufN1hOEy/?taken-by=annaallenclothing" target="_blank">2 years</a></b>, and I hope you will enjoy it as much as I have enjoyed creating, wearing, and fine-tuning it.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Thank you to Morissa from <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/bottleofbread" target="_blank">bottleofbread</a></b> for the use of her great images showing the <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/491229776/vintage-navy-sailor-pants-cropped-wide" target="_blank">original 1940's</a></b> <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/579727531/vintage-over-dyed-blue-sailor-trousers" target="_blank">sailor pants</a></b>. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">* One of the more common questions I get is how you would fit these pants with a much smaller waist to hip ratio. For this, you can cut the size that best fits your hips and then bring in an inch or two at the back darts and cut the smaller waistband to fit. Most people have had success with this method and haven't needed to add a side dart. If you have a fuller stomach, you can let out the front by re-drawing the opening so it is straighter and tapers less towards the waist.</span></div>
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Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-19115387409329886852018-03-27T08:29:00.000-06:002018-05-01T09:26:41.132-06:00Inspiration for the Persephone Sailor Pants + Shorts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWxOUL4krcIJkqmBmiS-Mu4I6l7yq0GR1F4JFee3t2Do08eWL7AdJ8Tcof2x6GRIwI8lphBifEgZ10oWqE_dqvCHMrokyC7Zo1jP1T8p1otDtkOiOHhs3WP6Y5YyMVBj3Ipl9b34n-6rdV/s1600/persephone_inspiration.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="961" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWxOUL4krcIJkqmBmiS-Mu4I6l7yq0GR1F4JFee3t2Do08eWL7AdJ8Tcof2x6GRIwI8lphBifEgZ10oWqE_dqvCHMrokyC7Zo1jP1T8p1otDtkOiOHhs3WP6Y5YyMVBj3Ipl9b34n-6rdV/s1600/persephone_inspiration.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.vintag.es/2017/07/35-glamorous-photos-of-sailor-beauties.html" target="_blank">1</a> | <a href="https://i.pinimg.com/originals/00/e4/84/00e484831bb99ee7682a888d1cf1da17.jpg" target="_blank">2</a> | <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/500673683553277986/" target="_blank">3</a> | <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/71776187790767130/" target="_blank">4</a> | <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coco_Chanel" target="_blank">5</a> | <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/221591244149472485/" target="_blank">6</a> | <a href="http://www.vintag.es/2017/07/35-glamorous-photos-of-sailor-beauties.html" target="_blank">7</a> | <a href="http://www.vintag.es/2017/07/35-glamorous-photos-of-sailor-beauties.html" target="_blank">8</a> | <a href="http://www.doctormacro.com/Movie%20Summaries/O/On%20the%20Town.htm" target="_blank">9</a></span></div>
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Today I wanted to talk a little bit about my new sewing pattern, the Persephone Pants + Shorts. I have been working on these pants for what feels like an eternity! In reality, it's been almost two years since I began drafting the original pattern. That pattern has gone through so many alterations since I first drafted it! I have learned so much about pants in the last year. I finally got the fit I was looking for and with the encouragement of several people, I decided to release my pattern into the world! I have been dreaming of a high waisted wide leg sailor pants pattern for years. I love the silhouette of the high waisted wide leg trousers from the 1930's and '40s. I wanted to create a modern interpretation of these pants, that were less baggy and much more fitted throughout the waist and hips. I think they can be so flattering on many different body types. I also personally love non-stretch pants and jeans and I haven't found a lot of home sewing patterns that were drafted specifically for non-stretch fabrics. Although this pattern was originally intended for non-stretch fabrics only, several of my wonderful pattern testers decided to use 3-5% stretch and they turned out absolutely fabulous! So really, it's up to you to decide what kind of fabric you want to use. I've been enjoying these pants made in a 10oz cotton canvas. I feel like it's heavy enough to hold everything in place, but it still has some movement and it's not quite as constricting as a 12oz or 15oz weight fabric. It's fun to experiment. I know I am looking forward to sewing some shorts and pants in a heavy linen this summer. But I am also thinking about making a pair of denim pants, maybe with a cut-off frayed hem. I love sewing because it gives me the power to make whatever I envision. The possibilities are limitless! </div>
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/603306981/persephone-pants-and-shorts-pdf-sewing" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="884" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBMkPjf5KLpPucugD1Y7pD89XSTwMYBWkZX3DEjooo6o1tAe6MzAofksZszCSunBsmZV7wo1dPqb1MR-cL08lpCC8MA6L65ljzb3iecQYS32IQ5sYzSt_FY0QaLiJUAW2qDfmMwUvo5ovH/s1600/persephone_photo-collage2.jpg" /></a></div>
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The Persephone Pants + Shorts are available as a sewing pattern for home sewers or if you don't sew, they are also available for purchase in my shop. If you want to share your Persephone pants or shorts on social media, feel free to use the hashtag #persephonepants </div>
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/603306981/persephone-pants-and-shorts-pdf-sewing" target="_blank">THE PERSEPHONE SEWING PATTERN</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/annaallen?section_id=23634036" target="_blank">MADE-TO-ORDER PANTS</a></div>
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Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-54842312035342671362018-01-24T11:31:00.001-07:002018-01-24T11:34:19.533-07:00Thread Loop Tutorial<div style="text-align: left;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/152499855?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="640"></iframe>
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Here's a 4 minute video I created on how to handsew a thread loop. This video was filmed for the instructions in my <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/521176269/heidi-pullover-top-sizes-0-16-pdf-womens" target="_blank">Heidi Pullover sewing pattern</a></b>. </div>
Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-32127103282279195142017-12-18T14:33:00.000-07:002018-11-30T08:24:06.915-07:00Sailor pants and an upcoming sewing pattern...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Some of you who follow me on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BLTt_NnhD80/?taken-by=annaallenclothing" target="_blank"><b>Instagram</b></a> know I've been working on a pattern for wide leg <b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BLTufN1hOEy/?taken-by=annaallenclothing" target="_blank">sailor pants</a></b> for over a year now. I thought the first pair was already pretty good, until I wore them more and discovered they were really very uncomfortable! Those pants were drafted using my measurements, but as I've learned through this exhausting process, things don't always fit as expected. Even when pants fit, they may not look good or they have wrinkles in odd places. The fitting is especially difficult with non-stretch fabrics. I also wanted them to be very fitted in the waist and hips, with a high waist, where the waistband sits at the natural waistline.<br />
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Most people think a high waist is at or just below your belly button, because we're so used to wearing pants at the hip. But the natural waist usually hits a couple of inches above the belly button. I know this from all the years of sewing and studying historical clothing. In the mid-19th century, the <b><a href="http://www.thegracefullady.com/civilwargowns/images/cdvs/daydresses/silkdress.jpg" target="_blank">waistline on a dress</a></b> would sit at or just above the natural waistline. It's essentially the smallest part of your waist.<br />
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I really wanted these pants to have a very high fitted waist, without front darts or hip shaping. I love the <b><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/221591244148931463/" target="_blank">sailor pants</a></b> men wore in the early to mid 20th century. If you've ever looked at a pair of sailor pants from that era, they don't have side seams! So essentially, there is no hip shaping in these. Obviously those pants were designed for a man's body, but I wanted to see if I could borrow from that design while also making them flattering on a woman's more curvy shape. I wondered if there was a pattern for men's <b><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/221591244148931463/" target="_blank">1940's US sailor pants</a></b> without the side seams, so I googled around and couldn't come up with anything. I decided to embark on the journey of drafting my own version. Countless muslins and several pants that are almost, but not quite good enough later and more drafting and MORE muslins and more fitting and... I think I finally have a pattern that I'm happy with! (Knock on wood...)<br />
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The pictures you see here are the pants I sewed up yesterday. I used a 10oz twill, which isn't actually what I want to use for the final pants. But I'm waiting on the fabric I ordered and this was all I had on hand. I also annoyingly forgot to <b><a href="https://closetcasepatterns.com/ginger-sewalong-pt-6-cutting-and-prepping/" target="_blank">cut the pants in a single layer</a></b> (to help prevent "<b><a href="http://fashion-incubator.com/jeans-jeans-jeans/" target="_blank">leg skew</a></b>"). I still have the buttons to install, but so far they seem to fit quite well, despite possible leg skew.... I'm going to be making another pair in a 10oz cotton canvas which is what I plan to use for my final version. I also ordered a few other weights that I'm going to be experimenting with. We'll see how it goes and if it works as planned, I will start grading this pattern!<br />
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It has already been a huge challenge (which I never expected when I started), but on the plus side, bigger challenges generally produce the most rewarding results. At least that's what I keep telling myself!! I didn't want to rush this pattern and I still want to make sure it's just as I envision it before continuing to the next step. When I began this whole thing, it was simply so that I could have a pair of flattering wide leg pants for myself. But after posting pictures to my <a href="https://www.instagram.com/annaallenclothing" target="_blank"><b>Instagram</b></a> of my first draft over a year ago, I've had a lot of people ask me about a pattern. So you guys, that's the plan! I would love to say it will be ready in the spring or summer (or even earlier??) but I'm not going to push my luck. I'll take it one step at a time and maybe that means I'll work on another, more simple pattern if this one ends up taking more time. Maybe I'll be surprised and it will go smoothly from here on out!<br />
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If you're an intermediate to advanced sewer and are interested in testing my pattern, feel free to <b><a href="mailto:gracefullady@gmail.com" target="_blank">send me an email</a></b>! I won't make the official call for pattern testers until I have the pattern graded and instructions written, but if you want to be notified when it's ready for testing, let me know and you'll be first in line!<br />
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If you've actually read this far, I applaud you! I wanted to just write what came naturally to mind, like I used to. I've been feeling more like blogging again and I'm going to try to find my voice, which I feel has been lost through the years. <b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/annaallenclothing/" target="_blank">Instagram</a></b> is lovely, but I don't feel like I can write very much in each picture and I find I need a place again to share more of my thoughts and ideas. I have so many ideas! Hopefully I will find time more often to write them down in this space. I hope to do lots more writing and creating in the new year. I hope whoever reads this will have a wonderful warm and happy holiday!<br />
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<br />Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-49387447453475492862017-11-28T07:25:00.002-07:002017-11-29T07:58:39.926-07:00ANNA ALLEN CLOTHING: HOLIDAY 2017 (20% off through December 3rd!)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/annaallen?coupon=HOLIDAY20"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdVE2PbwgeptfF68WCU2mUOPlz8WjGdMXQWapchsi7gAeyBwqK-sTHdH1aKyqpiXns8gWcM2h_XnbDXK1MedZ7uRH-quCtO6_MsPMmaSWaGeHNCJLEsjhkHP_RN666UiF58DMPfGljwRf8/s1600/black_check_pullover_dress_2.jpg" /></a> </div>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-b2884cd1-ff6e-04e1-e534-38697797a5b5"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-weight: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ingrid Black and White Gingham Dress </span></span></span></h4>
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/575462941/ingrid-black-and-white-gingham-dress"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2RwmD6_27qFs64Yjap6R3ujtK9UOLBtnibDXeqQPeIinycwdTq-24gzPG8xviRmG6pWZ4s3LNe-HwC8Sle2-mU1UAcce6uM-Ql7D1q3FrO8bNSu9KYF6XFU2eXGQCaayxX80T2UNX3bm6/s1600/black_check_pullover_dress_5.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ingrid Denim Pullover Top</span> </span></div>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-b2884cd1-ff70-9969-0fa6-a2055b1fcc43"><span style="font-family: "arial"; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Lisbet Navy Floral Blouse</span></span></span></div>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-b2884cd1-ff72-90c4-d414-f8ca56279042"><span style="font-family: "arial"; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ester Navy and Red Plaid Tartan Blouse</span></span></span></div>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-b2884cd1-ff72-fe73-3ce0-6957f470f1a3"><span style="font-family: "arial"; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Lisbet Rust Floral Blouse</span></span></span></div>
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It's finally here! My mini Holiday Collection! I'm very happy with how it turned out and I hope you will be as well! This little collection took me much longer than I anticipated, but life happens sometimes and I think it's always better not to rush things. I'm glad I took some extra time to get everything just right and I'm excited to finally share it with you!<br />
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Also! To celebrate the launch, I'm taking <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/annaallen?coupon=HOLIDAY20">20% off</a> </b>the entire Holiday Collection for <strike>ONE DAY only! Use code "<i>HOLIDAY</i>" at checkout.</strike> Some people had trouble with the coupon yesterday so I am extending the sale! <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/annaallen?coupon=HOLIDAY20">This sale includes everything in my shop!</a></b> Just use the code "<i>HOLIDAY20</i>" to receive 20% off your purchase today through Sunday (12-3-17). The fabrics for this collection are limited (especially the floral printed navy and rust Lisbet blouses) so if you have your eye on something, don't wait too long. I may not be able to reorder that particular fabric when my stash runs out!<br />
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<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://annaallenclothing.com/holiday-2017">HOLIDAY 2017</a></h3>
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<br /><a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/annaallen?coupon=HOLIDAY20">SHOP THE COLLECTION</a></h3>
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Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-51861451042547473962017-10-19T11:18:00.000-06:002017-10-19T11:18:17.040-06:00Non-Stretch Jeans<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm finally putting up some pictures I took a few weeks ago of these non-stretch jeans I made for myself. I used a self-drafted pants pattern I recently re-worked. I am contemplating making this into a sewing pattern to sell, but I'm also wondering if we really need yet another jeans pattern on the market. Plus I'm no expert in sewing jeans! To be honest, I actually prefer the look of factory made jeans. I absolutely love a good pair of vintage style Levi's. It's hard to make jeans at home without it looking "homemade" unless you're using a dark indigo denim and then you let it fade naturally over the course of a year or more. I don't wear dark denim hardly ever anymore, thanks to my fluffy white/grey cat! And in my experience, dark denim always seems to rub off onto my furniture. I also like the way a good medium to light faded stonewash denim looks on me compared to dark denim. But I am so very happy with the fit of these jeans and I really think others might find a non-stretch pants or jeans pattern useful. I am leaning towards more of a non-stretch pants pattern, which you could easily convert to a jeans pattern if you wanted. I might fiddle around with this some more, perhaps make it up in a slightly different style or fabric. I'm thinking of changing the front pockets to a style a bit more flattering, perhaps slant side seam pockets. Let me know if you would be interested in a pants pattern like this. What do you think of wearing non-stretch jeans? Have you sewn your own jeans before? Did you find it difficult to sew or more difficult to fit? I would love to hear your thoughts!<br />
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P.S. The shirt I'm wearing is the <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/521176269/heidi-pullover-top-sizes-0-16-pdf-womens"><b>Heidi Pullover</b></a> pattern. Also, there's a 30% off site-wide sale through the end of October. Use code: "OCTOBER" at checkout.<br />
<br />Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-21090397288067435052017-10-02T13:37:00.000-06:002017-10-02T13:37:36.127-06:00Autumn Scenes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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While most my friends in other parts of the country have been complaining of the warmth, here in Colorado it has been cold and rainy for weeks now. Yesterday was a bit warmer and the sun was out, so we decided to drive over to Golden Colorado, where it's generally much warmer and sunnier than other parts of the state. It was a gorgeous fall day and the hike was so lovely with fall colors starting to pop up everywhere. Here are a few scenes from the first day of October. I think I'm finally ready to embrace the fall weather. Bring out the sweaters and wool socks!Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-24791357579411033242017-06-16T09:38:00.000-06:002017-06-16T09:38:20.410-06:00Strawberry Birthday Cake<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I love baking cakes and especially decorating them! It's something I used to do when I was a little girl. I was obsessed with learning how to decorate a cake. I used to get the Wilton catalog and flip through all the pages, marking different piping tips and other cake tools I planned to save up for. I even bought a VHS course on decorating cakes. I prefer to decorate my cakes a little differently than I did when I was a little girl, but I am glad there was a time in my life where I learned how to use a piping bag and those little tips and tricks on how to frost a cake so it's smooth. I don't have any of my cake decorating tools anymore and I only have a select few piping tips in my cupboard. So I usually keep my cake decorating on the simple side these days. Believe it or not, I even frosted this cake with a regular old butter knife! It works, you just have to be patient.<br />
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This year I was gifted by a few of my David Austin rosebuds opening up the day before my birthday! I took it as a sign that I needed to decorate my cake with my freshly bloomed roses. Because this year I decided to make a strawberry cake, I thought it only proper to add strawberries to the decoration as well. It was hard to find a good recipe for strawberry cake, but I found one that looked pretty good and it turned out utterly delicious! I didn't even have any strawberry extract as the recipe recommends and it still tasted fabulous. I also did not add any food coloring. I wanted it to be a simple cake, nothing too fancy and if there was only a hint of strawberry taste, I was okay with that. It does call for strawberry gelatin, though, so that definitely added to the flavor. Sprouts (our grocery store) didn't have the Jello brand, so I used whatever they had (<a href="http://amzn.to/2taxRdm"><b>Bakol Jel Dessert</b></a>) which worked out just fine. I don't know if the Jello brand has a better flavor, but this one worked out beautifully. By the way, since I halved the recipe, I used only half of the gelatin package. The addition of strawberry puree gave the cake a very slight tinge of pink color, but it was mostly a cream color. I love how natural it looks, though. To me, it was just right.</div>
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For the frosting, I decided to look around for something I've never made before. I found a recipe for flour buttercream frosting. I have never ever heard of this kind of buttercream frosting and I was intrigued! I think the American buttercream icing can sometimes be too sweet for me and a little too rich and I was interested in finding something not quite so sweet. So I tried out the flour buttercream and it worked out perfectly. Because I halved the frosting recipe, I decided I would risk adding some strawberry puree (left over from the cake) a tablespoon at a time and see how it would turn out. If it didn't turn out, I would just make another batch. It worked perfectly! I added about two tablespoons of the strawberry puree, 1 tablespoon at a time, and then added about half a cup of confectioners' sugar. </div>
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Because I cobbled this cake recipe together, I thought I would share the links instead of writing it all down. I made half of the recipe and used 2, 6" cake pans, as I always do for birthday cake. Since this cake was to be eaten by only two people, there is no way I was going to make a whole birthday cake! We would be eating it all month long! In all honesty, though, it took us exactly one week to demolish my birthday cake! It was that good! I think it is now my husband's favorite cake that I've made so far (mine too, and I think our cat Ernest would agree)! </div>
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The Cake Recipe</h3>
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<li>I used the <b><a href="http://sweetapolita.com/2011/01/neapolitan-5-layer-birthday-cake-with-strawberry-frosting/">strawberry cake recipe from Sweetapolita</a></b> and made only 1/2 of the recipe and baked it in 2 - <b><a href="http://amzn.to/2rnG5xD">6" cake pans</a></b>. It worked out perfectly! </li>
<li>I made Flour Buttercream frosting using the <b><a href="http://www.seriouseats.com/2014/12/buttercreams-frosting-how-to-make-the-best-buttercream-icing-cupcakes-swiss-buttercream-italian-german-styles.html">wonderfully detailed recipe</a></b> from <b><a href="http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2014/12/flour-buttercream-fluffy-frosting-recipe.html">Serious Eats</a> </b>and only made half of the recipe. I then decided to add in 2 tablespoons strawberry puree (I had a lot left over after making the cake, but it's essentially strawberries and sugar which have been pureed in a blender, but I used an <b><a href="http://amzn.to/2sAA30W">immersion blender</a></b> and it worked great). Add in only 1 tablespoon at a time to see how it looks and tastes before continuing. I also added 1/2 cup to 3/4 cup confectioners' sugar after adding the strawberry puree. </li>
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Tips on Assembling the Cake</h3>
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<li>I baked the cake two days before my birthday and then wrapped the fully cooled cakes in plastic wrap and froze them. I find that frozen cake layers, especially light airy cakes, frost so much better when they are frozen. They usually thaw pretty fast as well when left out at room temperature or in the fridge for a day. I also like to frost the cake the day before and put it in the refrigerator over night. </li>
<li>Because I didn't have any strawberry flavoring added to my cake or frosting, and wanted a bit more strawberry flavor coming through, I decided to heat up a few tablespoons of some nice strawberry jam I had in the refrigerator and while frosting the cake, I would first spread a layer of strawberry jam on the cake layer before adding the frosting. I do think it made a big difference to the overall taste and it also acts as a "crumb coating" to keep those little crumbs from mixing with the frosting. </li>
<li>If you use flowers to decorate your cake, double check to make sure they aren't poisonous (of course this should be obviously, but just have to add that bit in)! </li>
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Let me know if you have any other questions about cake decorating and I'll try to help if I can! Baking, and especially decorating a cake is something I look forward to every year. Maybe it's strange to make my own birthday cake, but I'm always excited to try something new or interesting! Who else out there makes their own birthday cake and loves doing it? </div>
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P.S. Just in case you don't know, <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/annaallen">everything in my shop</a></b> (including custom orders) is 33% off using the code "BIRTHDAY" and this will continue all throughout the month of June. Let me know if you don't see something in the shop. I'm always open to custom orders! </div>
Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-25825289340339307842017-04-24T12:54:00.000-06:002017-04-24T12:54:26.643-06:00Anna Allen Clothing: Spring Sale!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Today through April 30th, everything in the <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/annaallen" style="text-size-adjust: 100%;" target="_blank"><b>shop</b></a> is 40% off! Use code SPRINGSALE at checkout or <a href="mailto:gracefullady@gmail.com" style="text-size-adjust: 100%;" target="_blank"><b>contact me</b></a> if you are interested in a custom order. </span></div>
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Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-7200127498670426162017-04-18T06:00:00.000-06:002017-04-18T06:00:10.887-06:00Sewing Project: Summer Dress Vintage Vogue 9732<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The other week I found this vintage Vogue Pattern Book and I decided to get it. I'm always so inspired by those old pattern books and this one looked like a fun one for the summertime! Funny, because when I looked up the pattern for the dress on the cover, I thought it looked familiar. I rummaged though my vintage patterns and found this exact design in my collection, plus it's in my size! Funny how I never thought about making it in a casual cotton. I think I like it best as a breezy summer dress. I haven't decided what fabric I'm going to use yet or even when I'll have time to work on it, but I hope I will have the time to make it soon. It's really starting to warm up around here and summer is just around the corner! It always goes by so fast!<br />
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I'm planning to trace the pattern out on tissue paper first, which is what I always do whether it's a vintage pattern or new. I know I'll have to make a few alterations since I want it to be more comfortable to wear and not quite as tight around the waist. That will be easy, because I noticed the front dart was rather large, so I'll probably end up letting out a little bit in that area. I don't think I'll make the petticoat with the ruffle either. It should be a quick sew with minor fitting issues, but I'll make a mock-up of the bodice before cutting into the fashion fabric just to be safe.<br />
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Does anyone else like sewing with vintage patterns? What era(s) are your favorites and what pattern companies do you like? My favorites hands down are McCall's and Vogue from the 1960's. I also like the late '50s, 1970's and even some of the early '80s patterns I think are fantastic. I find that these eras are pretty simple to incorporate into a modern wardrobe. I also have a fondness for even older patterns (1920s-'40s), but I'm mostly inspired by the 1960's-'70s fashions. Some of the artwork on those old patterns are really phenomenal as well!<br />
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<b><a href="http://www.annamcclurg.com/2015/04/sewing-vintage-vogue-9643-blouse.html">Here's a vintage Vogue pattern</a></b> I made up a few years ago. It's one of my favorite blouses. I've since <b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BS7LdbZA3vv/?taken-by=annaallenclothing">made another</a></b> in white dotted swiss cotton with 3/4 length sleeves and lace insertions (sorry that pic isn't a great view of the blouse!).Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-37247960867015823852017-04-11T06:30:00.000-06:002017-04-11T07:43:23.603-06:00Hot Cross Buns<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've never made hot cross buns before and I don't remember the last time I had one. I think they are more of a British roll, as I haven't seen them in the shops around here. But I could be wrong. In any case, I thought I would try my hand at making a batch for Easter this year. I couldn't wait for them to cool before piping the icing cross, so I split one with Jed and it was mouthwatering good! Perfectly sweet without the added icing. I think these would be great rolls to make for other occasions as well. I believe the more traditional hot cross buns have a cross made out of a flour/water paste which is piped onto the unbaked buns before going into the oven. I decided to pipe mine with icing after they were baked, however. Maybe I will try making them the more traditional way next year.<br />
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I scoured the internet to find the perfect recipe for hot cross buns and after looking at several, I decided on the one over at <b><a href="http://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/hot_cross_buns/">Simply Recipes</a></b>. I can pretty much always count on that website to find exactly what I'm looking for. And after trying this recipe for hot cross buns, I can definitely recommend it. They really aren't hard at all to make. Very similar to a <b><a href="https://youtu.be/c7fUDmSmeAw">cinnamon roll dough</a> </b>(video). I used a pumpkin spice mix from Trader Joe's in place of the recommended spices, since I like their spice mix (it includes my favorite spice, cardamom). I also made it slightly different than what the recipe instructed. I scalded the milk and added the cold butter, which melted in the hot milk and then mixed in the sugar. Doing this brought down the temperature of the milk so there was no risk of killing the yeast. I then added the yeast and eggs and mixed it around a bit before pouring the liquid into the dry ingredients and continuing with the recipe. I really think the orange zest adds so much flavor to these buns.<br />
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Let me know if you make these hot cross buns and what you think of them. I am looking forward to having one for breakfast. Bon appétit!Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-38871721596816833122017-04-04T07:00:00.000-06:002017-04-04T07:00:21.638-06:00My Favorite Chocolate Chip Cookies Recipe<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Everyone has their favorite chocolate chip cookie recipe and this one is mine. I've been making it for years and while I've tried many other recipes, I just keep coming back to this one. It's an old Better Homes and Garden recipe from 1963. It's a very basic recipe that produces the perfect chewy cookie. Just the right amount of chocolate chips and chopped nuts. Of course you can omit the nuts if you don't like them, perhaps add more chocolate chips or just omit them altogether. I usually use walnuts because they are my favorite, but use whatever nuts you like or have on hand.<br />
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The original recipe says to use part butter and part shortening. Now, I've made these with all butter more than I have with part shortening. I personally have no issues using vegetable shortening in my baking, but I know some people think it's unhealthy. I don't really think it's a problem in moderation (as with practically anything). But I have to say, the shortening does make these cookies extra lovely and chewy. The all butter can make the cookies spread a bit more, which is okay but not really what I look for in my perfect chocolate chip cookie. Either way, whether you use all butter or part, I think it produces a lovely cookie. In this batch I added 1 stick butter with the remaining 3 1/3 tablespoons shortening. Even that little bit of shortening made them just the way I like them without sacrificing any flavor.<br />
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When I make a batch of these cookies, I keep a few in our cookie jar and the rest in the freezer. Mom used to freeze balls of cookie dough and then bake them directly from the freezer when needed. That works as well, but I have found they don't spread as nicely when you bake from frozen. So I just bake the entire batch and freeze any I don't think we'll eat in a day or two.<br />
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I hope I've inspired you to keep your cupboards stocked with all the ingredients to make these. Because you never know when you'll get a hankering for chocolate chip cookies!<br />
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CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES<br />
1/3 cup unsalted butter<br />
1/3 cup shortening (I used 1/2 cup butter and 3 1/3 tablespoons shortening for this batch)<br />
1/2 cup granulated sugar<br />
1/2 cup brown sugar (packed)<br />
1 egg<br />
1 tsp. vanilla<br />
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour<br />
1/2 tsp. baking soda<br />
1/2 tsp. table salt<br />
1/2 cup chopped nuts<br />
1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips (6 oz.)<br />
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Pre-heat oven to 375°F. Mix butter/shortening, sugars, egg, and vanilla thoroughly. Stir dry ingredients together and blend in the butter mixture until just incorporated (don't over mix). Mix in nuts and chocolate chips. Drop in teaspoonfuls about 2" apart on ungreased baking sheet. Bake 8-10 minutes or until delicately browned. (Cookies should still be soft.) Cool slightly before removing from baking sheet. Makes over 2 dozen (I used a tablespoon cookie scoop).<br />
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<br />Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-15423553315922834522017-03-28T10:31:00.003-06:002017-03-28T10:31:55.260-06:00New Sewing Pattern and Summery Dresses<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/521176269/heidi-pullover-top-sizes-0-16-pdf-womens"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsZHwAaJNXTmzqEn3CHCPBY-yJzcvrK0Hb3gsWnSIhyNevJw2RCcj4yXc4J8oujmG0uyOSvFENtsmVSiPo9tZ8IBvYudy_nhacoogsPE23Cgd4G0J2FXgUhrgZoJyr8vNJQnt5J_wJRYxt/s1600/HEIDI_PULLOVER_COVER_SQUARE.jpg" /></a></div>
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Wanted to pop over here to let you know I have a new pattern now available! I created this design in 2010 for my clothing shop and I am thrilled to now have it available for home sewers. This is a simple pullover top, originally made with blue chambray cotton but I also think it works really well in a soft linen for summertime. The PDF pattern comes in sizes 0-16 and can be downloaded instantly and printed at home. The instructions include photographs and line drawings along with a short video I filmed to show how to sew a thread loop.<br />
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I have also recently updated the shop with several new linen dresses and hope to add a few more floral lawn garments in the upcoming weeks as well. Feel free to take a look in my <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/annaallen">Etsy Shop</a> for all the new goodies!<br />
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/annaallen">S H O P!</a></h3>
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Once again, I dropped off the face of the earth over in Blog World! I have actually started many times writing a blog post only to decide it was rubbish and ended up not publishing it. Instagram is too easy, you know? But I'm not giving up. I am hoping I can think up some things to post more regularly. Sorry it has been so quiet here. The notes I received on my last Christmas post were incredibly kind and they really do mean so much to me! Thanks to all who have stuck around with me on this space. I want to have more content here and soon! xx<br />
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<br />Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-91869538340275760782016-12-08T09:57:00.000-07:002016-12-08T09:57:25.340-07:00Christmas Memories<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I haven't been on this space in ages! To be honest, I haven't had the "blogging bug" in awhile. Not quite sure what to write about and just being plain old lazy. I think it's too easy to compare yourself to other massively talented bloggers these days and how it seems everyone else is just so on top of it that I just don't even want to bother. Plus I kind of feel like most people seem to be on Instagram more often anyway. I love a good blog, though, don't get me wrong. I've just been lacking inspiration. If anyone still reads my blog and has any ideas of content you would like me to write more about, please let me know! I think I just need to find my focus and once I do, writing here won't feel so forced.<br />
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Lately I've been getting into the Christmas spirit with a little bit of crafting and baking. We had our first big snow yesterday (besides a little one earlier in the season, that quickly melted). I decided it was the perfect day to bake some gingerbread cookies. The intoxicating gingerbread filled the house with memories of Christmases past at my grandparent's house. Do you ever bake certain foods that remind you of some fond memory from your childhood? That gingerbread smell takes me back to the moment we arrived in the small town my mom grew up in. My grandparents lived in an old Victorian house with a working fireplace, the same house my mom grew up in. Grandpa would be tending the fire and Grandma in the kitchen cooking a huge Christmas meal. There would be Wassail in a Crockpot with small glass teacups next to it. Aunts, uncles and cousins milling about drinking their hot wassail or cranberry wine if you were old enough to have alcohol. Usually everyone started arriving around noon on Christmas day. We would eat a big midday meal and after the meal was cleared and the dishes were washed, everyone would gather into the big living room with the fireplace and the grand piano. My aunt Susan would play Christmas carols on the piano and we would all sing along. My aunt Gwen lead everyone to her own version of Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer complete with hand gestures. That silly song always made me laugh as a little girl. After singing carols, we would pass out Christmas presents and everyone would open them one by one, youngest to oldest. That's correct, we couldn't open any present until it was our turn and then when it was our turn, everyone's eyes were on us and we had just one gift to open. This went on for ages, of course, but it was loads of fun. Then when almost all of the presents had been opened, suddenly there was a knock at the back door. Who could it be?! All of the children ran back and when the door was opened there was a big burlap bag filled with gifts. Santa was here! The gifts in the Santa bag were always so nice. Of course they were from our grandparents, but for those young enough to still believe in Santa, it was pretty exciting. One of my fondest memories was receiving my very first American Girl Doll, Felicity. I was overjoyed! The next year my grandpa actually made furniture for our dolls, exact replicas from the Pleasant Company catalog! I have had some pretty amazing Christmas memories. I loved Christmas at my grandparent's house. We would usually spend the night and sometimes Grandma let us sleep in the living room by the fire. My aunt Sarah would tell us ghost stories to my sister, cousin and I. Falling asleep was easy to do after a long exciting day. As I grow older those memories are some of the things I cherish during the holiday season. I know not everyone has good memories during this time, but it's never too late to make new memories and traditions.<br />
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What are some of your holiday memories?<br />
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<br />Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-78565577128512743352016-08-22T22:06:00.001-06:002016-08-22T22:06:54.834-06:00Back to school sale!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've loaded the shop with lots of goodies and thought it would be fun to start the new school season off with a little sale. Everything is 30% off (orders $100 or more) including custom orders! Use code: ENDOFSUMMER in my Etsy Shop to receive the discount. The sale lasts through August 31st. Let me know if you don't see something in the shop that you would like me to make! Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-62301174998839570212016-07-27T11:34:00.000-06:002016-07-27T11:34:34.656-06:00New Sewing Pattern: Lotte Blouse <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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My <b><a href="http://annaallenclothing.com/lotteblouse">Lotte Blouse sewing pattern</a></b> is finally ready! I really wanted to make this one available at a discount, so I decided to try something a bit different for this pattern. Instead of pricing it myself, I'm going to leave that up to you! It's yours for whatever you think the pattern is worth or whatever you can afford. When you click on the button for purchase, you will be redirected to the payment form where you will simply fill in the blank yourself. Easy! :)<br />
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I really enjoyed making this pattern. It's quick and fairly straight forward, so a beginner/intermediate sewer should find it a simple one to sew up in an afternoon. I've been getting lots of wear out of the blouses I've made and already have plans for some other variations for this blouse. I keep seeing these off-the-shoulder style blouses pop up all over the place and I think they are so easy to make. There's no need to buy one already made if you can sew!<br />
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If you are interested in sharing photos of your creations using my patterns, I would love to invite you to join my <b><a href="https://flic.kr/g/qGEE1">Flickr sewing group</a></b> and post pictures! I am working on more sewing patterns and hope to have them added to my collection in the coming months!
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If you would like to receive emails when I come out with new sewing patterns or clothing collections, feel free to join my <b><a href="http://annaallenclothing.us6.list-manage.com/subscribe?u=2bf3181e1bec36bb0aa3abe58&id=f76c1801c3">mailing list</a></b> for updates!<br />
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<a href="http://www.annaallenclothing.com/">WWW.ANNAALLENCLOTHING.COM</a></div>
Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-11937501148521469822016-06-18T10:35:00.000-06:002016-06-18T10:35:39.678-06:00Today is my five year wedding anniversary!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It's hard to believe it has been five years already! Being together hasn't always been easy, especially at the beginning of our relationship, but we have stayed together through thick and thin. We've learned so much and we've changed too! I love that we are slightly different people than the people we were seven years ago when we met. I think it's inevitable that people change and grow as they age. I'm grateful Jed and I have changed together. Jed makes me a better version of myself, he pushes me sometimes when I don't push myself. I'd like to think I help him become a better person as well! (Jed will tell you if this is true or not.) :) I really believe we are better people because we have each other. I love this man with all my heart and soul. I thank <b><a href="https://youtu.be/bi1cp7nNKpA">my lucky stars</a></b> we found each other! Here's to another 5 years and beyond, Baby! XOXOAnna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-946922703721835672016-05-23T08:16:00.001-06:002016-05-23T08:17:53.410-06:00A summer trend: off the shoulder <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've been seeing a lot of off-the-shoulder tops and dresses lately and I have to say I'm really loving this trend! I love wearing tops with a wide neckline or ones where the neckline dips lower in the back. I find them super flattering on. So the other day I decided to draft my own blouse and see how I like it. I think I want to make a few tweaks to the pattern, perhaps make one that isn't so "blousy," and one that buttons up the front as well. But I think this top will be really nice and cool to wear in the summer. Let me know if anyone would be interested in a pattern like this. I might throw it together as a quick PDF download (although I do have another top pattern in the works that is just about ready)! xoAnna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9073762742008407695.post-81916893879663108532016-05-12T12:36:00.000-06:002016-05-12T12:36:38.460-06:00A New Dress Inspired by The Moon-Spinners<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I just finished this dress for a client who also shares a love for the 1964 Disney film <b><a href="http://www.annamcclurg.com/2012/06/moon-spinners-hayleys-green-dress.html">The Moon-Spinners</a></b>. She asked if I could make my <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/189573462/bachelors-buttons-shirt-dress">Bachelor's Button dress</a></b> with green fabric and a white collar/buttons. Custom orders like this dress are my favorite to make! I was so happy when I found the perfect green linen fabric in a similar shade as the dress Hayley Mills wears in the movie. I made the collar with white handkerchief linen and covered the buttons in the same fabric. I think it turned out rather nice and now I want a dress like it for myself! If you are interested in a dress like this one or you would like to talk to me about a custom order, please feel free to <b><a href="mailto:gracefullady@gmail.com">drop me a line</a></b>! I love working with clients on custom orders. They usually turn out to be the most rewarding projects to make!<br />
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<i>{And just for fun... <b><a href="http://gracefullady.tumblr.com/post/119774857395/from-my-vinyl-copy-of-the-moon-spinners-original">click here to listen to "Nicola" from The Moon-Spinners soundtrack</a></b>!}</i>Anna McClurghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02924367696371374833noreply@blogger.com2